Haunted Air, Anonymous Halloween photographs from 1875–1955

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Haunted Air
Anonymous Halloween photographs from c.1875–1955—truly haunting Americana, with a foreword by David Lynch

The roots of Hallowe’en lie in the ancient pre-Christian Celtic festival of Samhain, a feast to mark the death of the old year and the birth of the new. It was believed that on this night the veil separating the worlds of the living and the dead grew thin and ruptured, allowing spirits to pass through and walk unseen but not unheard amongst men. The advent of Christianity saw the pagan festival subsumed in All Souls’ Day, when across Europe the dead were mourned and venerated. Children and the poor, often masked or in outlandish costume, wandered the night begging ‘soul cakes’ in exchange for prayers, and fires burned to keep malevolent phantoms at bay.

From Europe, the haunted tradition would quickly take root and flourish in the fertile soil of the New World. Feeding hungrily on fresh lore, consuming half-remembered tales of its own shadowy origins and rituals, Hallowe’en was reborn in America. The pumpkin supplanted the carved turnip; costumes grew ever stranger, and celebrants both rural and urban seized gleefully on the festival’s intoxicating, lawless spirit. For one wild night, the dead stared into the faces of the living and the
living, ghoulishly masked and clad in tattered backwoods baroque, stared back.

The photographs in Haunted Air provide an extraordinary glimpse into the traditions of this macabre festival from ages past, and form an important document of photographic history. These are the pictures of the dead: family portraits, mementoes of the treasured, now unrecognisable, other. Torn from album pages, sold piecemeal for pennies and scattered, abandoned to melancholy chance and the hands of strangers.

Helmut Newton, Polaroids

Book, Fashion, Inspiration, Photography

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A collection of Helmut Newton’s test Polaroids

Polaroids occupy a special place in the hearts of many photo enthusiasts who remember a time when “instant photography” meant one-of-a-kind prints that developed within minutes of clicking the shutter. What was once a crucial tool for photographers to test their shots before shooting on film has now become obsolete in the face of digital photography. Luckily for us, legendary photographer Helmut Newton saved his test Polaroids, allowing a privileged and rare chance to see the tests from a selection of his greatest shoots over a period of decades, including many from the TASCHEN titles SUMO, A Gun for Hire, and Work. Selected by his widow, June Newton, from over 300 photos featured at the 2011 exhibition “Helmut Newton Polaroids” at the Museum für Fotografie in Berlin, this collection captures the magic of Helmut Newton photo shoots as only Polaroids can.

€ 39.99 over at Tashen’s

Minimalism and Fashion: Reduction in the Postmodern Era

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From fashion authority Elyssa Dimant—author of the award-winning Fashioning Fabrics and co-curator of the acclaimed WILD: Fashion Untamed exhibition at the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art—Minimalism and Fashion is a groundbreaking, provocative exploration of the influence of minimalist art and minimalist design on the fashion industry from the 1960s to the present. A foreword by celebrated designer Francisco Costa, the women’s creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, illuminates how minimalism continues to inform fashion as modern design carries us into the future of couture.

Minimalism and Fashion (HapperCollins) is the first book to examine the minimalist movement in fashion while addressing its confluence with and divergence from similar currents in art, architecture, and design. Organized by decade, the text explores the evolving relationships and influences between fine art and the art of sartorial minimalism, and is accompanied by more than 150 breathtaking images.

This sumptuous volume considers the work of the world’s most important designers and artists in fascinating juxtaposition. It contains creations by noteworthy designers, including Madeleine Vionnet, André Courrèges, Halston, Karl Lagerfeld, Rei Kawakubo, Miuccia Prada, Yohji Yamamoto, Helmut Lang, and many others. There are major works by such key minimalist artists as Frank Stella, Sol LeWitt, Donald Judd, Dan Flavin, Rachel Whiteread, Peter Halley, and Jeff Koons. The volume’s photography includes editorial shots by the greatest image makers of this century and the previous, including Richard Avedon, Hiro, Francesco Scavullo, Guy Bourdin, David Bailey, William Klein, Corinne Day, and Juergen Teller. The dialogue among fine art, photography, and fashion is explored in a brilliantly woven text that clarifies how each form has influenced the other. With its extraordinary art and insight, this book is a must for lovers of fashion as well as fine art and photography books.

Maison Martin Margiela Book

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Graduating from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the 1980s, Martin Margiela (and his contemporaries in the Antwerp Six) transformed global fashion with his aggressive restatement of traditional fashion design and a polemical approach to luxury trends. Working first with the house of Gaultier, Margiela absorbed the radical design of Japanese deconstruction, making it wholly his own with the founding of his own label in 1988. Margiela propounds a singular, enigmatic look, moving beyond the recognizable tropes of deconstruction—a monochromatic palette, outsized garments, non-traditional fabrics, exposed seams, or roughly appliquéd details—to develop a fully considered worldview, one with elegance, mystery, and menace in equal measure. This book provides an inside look at the design process from a craftsman who creates pieces prized for their originality, delicacy, and daring. In the spirit of Margiela’s garments, the book is a work of art in itself, designed exclusively by Margiela and complete with silver inks, ribbon markers, a variety of lush paper types, twelve booklets, and an embroidered white-linen cover. This book provides a window onto the intimate, handmade world of a unique designer.

The first book to document the work—from fashion and art to design and performance—of the Paris-based Belgian couturiere, one of the reigning luminaries of the current fashion scene.

Martin Margiela, born in 1957 in Leuven, Belgium, is the principal designer of his own Paris-based fashion house.

Published by Rizzoli

Punk poet and ‘Basketball Diaries’ author Jim Carroll has died

Book, Inspiration, Video

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New York punk poet, musician and author Jim Carroll has died of a heart attack, aged 60.

Carroll, who wrote ‘The Basketball Diaries’, died on Friday (September 11) at his Manhattan home, his former wife Rosemary Carroll confirmed.

A heroin addict at 13, Carroll documented his teenage years in ‘The Basketball Diaries’, which was originally published in 1978 and turned into a film starring Leonardo DiCaprio in 1995.

As well as being revered as a writer, Carroll was embraced by the late 1970s New York punk scene, becoming a punk poet and starting his own band (The Jim Carroll Band) at the behest of Patti Smith.

The Rolling Stones’ Keith Richards was also a fan, orchestrating the band a three-album deal with Atlantic Records.

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The Jim Carroll Band’s most famous song, ‘People Who Died’ – which you can watch by scrolling down now – was used in Steven Spielberg’s film ‘E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial’.

Talking to the New York Times yesterday, Smith paid tribute to Carroll.

“I met him in 1970, and already he was pretty much universally recognised as the best poet of his generation,” she explained. “The work was sophisticated and elegant. He had beauty.”

Vampire Weekend frontman Ezra Koenig also wrote about Carroll’s death on his Twitter page , saying: “I spent a lot of time listening to my dad’s 45 of ‘People Who Died’ back in the day.”

(via NME)

Mark Borthwick – Not in Fashion

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Published by Rizzoli early january this year, Not in Fashion is the first comprehensive survey of the work of Mark Borthwick, one of the most influential alternative fashion photographers of our time.

Mark Borthwick is among the generation of photographers who in the ’90s
broke through the conventions of fashion photography. Integrating elements
of architecture and design, he has developed a very personal and intuitive
style, and knows how to turn a static photo into a performance.His work is
about the movement of the model, and the serendipity of accidental clutter
is as important to his images as the garments.

This book showcases over 200 images from Borthwick’s best fashion editorials, celebrity portraits, and advertising work, as well as excerpts from his personal journals. The journal pages, consisting of Polaroids, sketches, and notes on shoots, reveal the workings of a photographer’s mind—the “behind the scenes” of the makings of a fashion image.

Mark Borthwick’s work regularly appears in magazines such as i-D, Interview, Italian Vogue, and Purple. His photographs have been exhibited around the world and featured in art magazines such as Artforum and Flash Art. Borthwick lives in Brooklyn, New York.

The Stephen Sprouse Book

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Released in January this year by publisher Rizzoli, The Stephen Sprouse Book, is the first monograph on the influential fashion designer whose graffiti- and rock-inspired clothing defined the 1980s.

Inventive, enigmatic, and supremely creative, Stephen Sprouse made art and clothing that captured the mood of the eighties.One of the first American designers to mix graffiti and a punk aestheticwith fashion, Sprouse manipulated conventional notions of style, and his unique sensibility has inspired designers from John Galliano to Raf Simmons to Marc Jacobs.

Sprouse’s career started in the late seventies, when, after working for Halston, he migrated to a warehouse on the Bowery and started making outfits for his neighbor, Debbie Harry. The fashion world quickly embraced his innovative, culturally relevant sensibility and downtown edge. But Sprouse’s inability to compromise his artistic vision for the rigid fashion
business compromised his commercial success.

The Padilhas possess the largest private collection of Sprouse’s work, and were given exclusive access to his archives by his familyfor thisproject. They also obtained never-before-published images from photographers such as Steven Meisel, Bob Gruen, and Mert and Marcus. The book features a foreword by the novelist Tama Janowitz,one of Sprouse’s closest friends.

Westphalie Verlag publishes artist’s books

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Westphalie Verlag

The Sartorialist Book

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Available now!

Mon bien aimé a passé la main par la fente, et pour lui mes entrailles ont frémi

Book, Inspiration

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Mathieu Renard works with intrusive appropriation of images -photographs, illustrations…- and words, thus giving them a new meaning and a new aesthetic range. Dedicated to various current trends in art, his work calls upon a re-reading of History, whether it be political, social or artistic, and alters these actualities. He calls upon a re-examination of the habits and stereotypes of our civilization.
Particularly fond of working with paper, with methods such as printing and reproducability, he published Four-Hands with Céline Duval documentation, Edition Spéciale n°1 with Zédélé Editions, Delta with John Magazine and Summer Boys with Pin Up Badges. Born 1974 in Rennes, France, Mathieu Renard works in Rennes. He is the founder of LENDROIT Galerie.

Mon bien aimé a passé la main par la fente, et pour lui mes entrailles ont frémi” is a great, strange, and fascinating wide open window to a new sexual world. This book could be seen as a new kind of sexual handbook… porno chic and porno cheap at the same time.

Printed in june 2009
first edition : 100 copies

52 pages, black and white printed, perfect bound – 14 x 21 cm
cover printed on 250gr linear golden paper, inside printed on 120gr silver and silverpink paper

Buy it here for 12 euros.