BARBARA I GONGINI AW11-12 FILM TEASER

Fashion, Film, Video

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UNDER THE INFLUENCE is happy to present you on exclusivity with a 1Min Teaser of BARBARA I GONGINI AW11-12 FILM

Credits
Director Marianna Mørkøre / Cinematographer Janus á Argjahøvda / Lights Karina Jønson / Editor Marianna Mørkøre / Make-up Tina Kristoffersen / Model Wiktor Strand Hansson / Still Photographer Karina Jønson /Music Jens L. Thomsen / Sponsored by Mentanargrunnur Landsins /

The full film feature will shortly be unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week at:

THEPROJEKTGALERIE
Thursday 20th January 2011
7.00pm
Karl Liebknecht Strasse 9 / Berlin Mitte

Barbara I Gongini’s trademark monochromatic color palette puts the focus on avant-gardist geometric shapes and androgynous conceptual designs at the fore front of the craft; Cutting edge fashion merged with sustainable and ecological responsibilty.

For more insight please visit: www.barbaraigongini.dk

“Daddy” a poem by Sylvia Plath

Fashion

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Daddy Daddy
You do not do, you do not do
Any more, black shoe
In which I have lived like a foot
For thirty years, poor and white,
Barely daring to breathe or Achoo.

Daddy, I have had to kill you.
You died before I had time—
Marble-heavy, a bag full of God,
Ghastly statue with one gray toe
Big as a Frisco seal

And a head in the freakish Atlantic
Where it pours bean green over blue
In the waters off the beautiful Nauset.
I used to pray to recover you.
Ach, du.

In the German tongue, in the Polish town
Scraped flat by the roller
Of wars, wars, wars.
But the name of the town is common.
My Polack friend

Says there are a dozen or two.
So I never could tell where you
Put your foot, your root,
I never could talk to you.
The tongue stuck in my jaw.

It stuck in a barb wire snare.
Ich, ich, ich, ich,
I could hardly speak.
I thought every German was you.
And the language obscene

An engine, an engine,
Chuffing me off like a Jew.
A Jew to Dachau, Auschwitz, Belsen.
I began to talk like a Jew.
I think I may well be a Jew.

The snows of the Tyrol, the clear beer of Vienna
Are not very pure or true.
With my gypsy ancestress and my weird luck
And my Taroc pack and my Taroc pack
I may be a bit of a Jew.

I have always been sacred of you,
With your Luftwaffe, your gobbledygoo.
And your neat mustache
And your Aryan eye, bright blue.
Panzer-man, panzer-man, O You—-

Not God but a swastika
So black no sky could squeak through.
Every woman adores a Fascist,
The boot in the face, the brute
Brute heart of a brute like you.

You stand at the blackboard, daddy,
In the picture I have of you,
A cleft in your chin instead of your foot
But no less a devil for that, no not
Any less the black man who

Bit my pretty red heart in two.
I was ten when they buried you.
At twenty I tried to die
And get back, back, back to you.
I thought even the bones would do.

But they pulled me out of the sack,
And they stuck me together with glue.
And then I knew what to do.
I made a model of you,
A man in black with a Meinkampf look

And a love of the rack and the screw.
And I said I do, I do.
So daddy, I’m finally through.
The black telephone’s off at the root,
The voices just can’t worm through.

If I’ve killed one man, I’ve killed two—
The vampire who said he was you
And drank my blood for a year,
Seven years, if you want to know.
Daddy, you can lie back now.

There’s a stake in your fat black heart
And the villagers never liked you.
They are dancing and stamping on you.
They always knew it was you.
Daddy, daddy, you bastard, I’m through.

by Sylvia Plath

PvonK Galerie Installation Abbild for Under the Influence Magazine

Fashion

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Installation made by PvonK and Til Gold, with dedicated Music from Raphael Egel.

This Installation took place during tour Daddy Issue Launch Party last month in Paris.

The topic “Under the influence of the father” is worked into a mix of scenography and video installation, a permanent loop about how we can be related to our maker and that we always refer to him.

Thanks to Pvonk Galerie for coming over all the way from Berlin!

Tribute to Alexander McQueen by Nick Knight

Fashion, Video

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“This film is my way of speaking about a very unique and important person who changed my life. My desire was to speak in some way about the dark and the light contained within Lee, and within us all.”
Nick Knight

George — A Short Film on Fashion for The Daddy Issue

Fashion, Film, Video

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We are very excited to introduce you to George — A Short Film on Fashion directed by Benjamin Bouchet & Thomas Crauk for Under The Influence #8 / The Daddy Issue.

Directed by Benjamin Bouchet & Thomas Crauk
Styling by Inès Fendri
Music by Brice Catherin
Editing by Clément Chabert

Minimalism and Fashion: Reduction in the Postmodern Era

Book, Fashion

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MinimalismAndFashionReductionInThePostmodernEra.jpeg

From fashion authority Elyssa Dimant—author of the award-winning Fashioning Fabrics and co-curator of the acclaimed WILD: Fashion Untamed exhibition at the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art—Minimalism and Fashion is a groundbreaking, provocative exploration of the influence of minimalist art and minimalist design on the fashion industry from the 1960s to the present. A foreword by celebrated designer Francisco Costa, the women’s creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, illuminates how minimalism continues to inform fashion as modern design carries us into the future of couture.

Minimalism and Fashion (HapperCollins) is the first book to examine the minimalist movement in fashion while addressing its confluence with and divergence from similar currents in art, architecture, and design. Organized by decade, the text explores the evolving relationships and influences between fine art and the art of sartorial minimalism, and is accompanied by more than 150 breathtaking images.

This sumptuous volume considers the work of the world’s most important designers and artists in fascinating juxtaposition. It contains creations by noteworthy designers, including Madeleine Vionnet, André Courrèges, Halston, Karl Lagerfeld, Rei Kawakubo, Miuccia Prada, Yohji Yamamoto, Helmut Lang, and many others. There are major works by such key minimalist artists as Frank Stella, Sol LeWitt, Donald Judd, Dan Flavin, Rachel Whiteread, Peter Halley, and Jeff Koons. The volume’s photography includes editorial shots by the greatest image makers of this century and the previous, including Richard Avedon, Hiro, Francesco Scavullo, Guy Bourdin, David Bailey, William Klein, Corinne Day, and Juergen Teller. The dialogue among fine art, photography, and fashion is explored in a brilliantly woven text that clarifies how each form has influenced the other. With its extraordinary art and insight, this book is a must for lovers of fashion as well as fine art and photography books.

Behind the scene Under The Influence issue #8 – Mark O’Sullivan

Fashion, Magazine, Work in Progress

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Under the influence’s “The Daddy issue”
Behind the scenes of our Jenny Maxwell fashion shoot by Mark O’Sullivan & Céline Marioni, inspired by Daddy’s turtle neck & Paradjanov.
Styled by Under the influence Fashion Director Céline Marioni
Model Mackenzie Drazan at Elite Agency
Make-up: Corinne Fouet, Hair dresser: Jean-Luc Amarin assisted by Massako Hayashi
Manicure: An Thuy all at Airport Agency .
Fashion assistant Joy Maire, photo assistant Koh Yeo Myoung, Jerry Buttle & casting director Bianca O’Brien.

Behind the scenes Colour Photography by Jerry Buttles , Black & White by Susan Connie Marsh

Silvina Maestro S/S 2011

Fashion

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Silvina Maestro graduated from Central Saint Martins and was immediately offered a job at Givenchy in Paris were she designed the jersey garments for the Prêt-a-Porter, assisting designer Riccardo Tisci. She also worked for Emilio de la Morena; as work experience with Boudicca and had the honour of completing a long internship with the late Alexander McQueen.
She has recently been selected as one of the 10 finalists for the prestigious Fashion Fringe 2010 competition by John Galliano.

“Flowers Grow Pale in the Twilight” is her second inspired by the music of the Austrian composer Gustav Mahler and the film “Death in Venice” by Luchino Visconti. The collection presentation took place at Saint Martins Lane Hotel on Sunday 19 September during London Fashion Week.

Her label’s ethos encompasses a unique stance on design and fashion as a creative expression and an art form promoting pure creativity.
A former Literature student, Silvina strives to bring a sense of narrative and poetry to her designs.

Her first collection AW 2010 called “Alba Lux” has gained the attention of the international press with her designs appearing in magazines like Vogue.

Junko Shimada S/S 2011

Fashion

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Junko Shimada S/S 2011
Photography by Xavier Encinas for Under The Influence

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac S/S 2011

Fashion

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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac S/S 2011
Photography by Xavier Encinas for Under The Influence